Off the beaten track: Exploring the Shimanami Kaidō & Seto Islands
Famous for it’s cycle track, the “Shimanami Kaidō”, the Seto Inland Sea is home to multiple islands full of charming villages and peaceful nature. For us, it was the perfect end to our Japan trip after busy hotspots like Osaka and Kyoto! Read on my top picks + full list of places to visit!
After Osaka, Kyoto and Hiroshima, this area was the perfect way to wind down our Japan adventure. The Seto Inland sea has a series of islands all joined together by impressive suspension bridges. These connect the islands to both sides of the mainland. While it’s most well known as a cycling destination, we chose to hire a car and stay on the islands for a few days.
Like most, we started on the mainland at the city of Onomichi - a cute little town, famous for it’s hilltop lookout and cable car. This whole trip was inspired a beautiful AirBnB I found on one of the islands - Omishima - the biggest of the islands and in the centre of the bunch. While public transport is feasible, we found it much easier to drive across the islands and this gave us much more flexibility (although, do note, most of the main bridges have tolls).
Once we settled in, we found a surprising amount of great things to do on the islands!
Firstly, the food here is amazing! The area is famous for citrus especially with mandarin juice and lemon cakes being my top picks. You find these specialities across the island in various souvenir stores, but our favourite was the lemon puffs from Shimagokoro SETODA Honten. There are also some truly top quality restaurants too. Bubuka is definitely my #1 - not only was it the best in the area, it was one of the best quality and inventive meals I had in ALL of Japan. There menu has 2 specialities - the fish omakase set or the soup, salad and sandwich of the today set. The salad was zesty and flavourful and paired amazingly with my duck (?!) baguette.
Get your drink on. There’s great beverage options of all sorts here (alc and non-alc of course). On Omishima, you’ll find Omishima Brewery and locally made wines at 大三島みんなのワイナリー. Just remember the limit for drivers and cyclists is 0%. In terms of non-alcoholic options, the winery also offers a bunch of punchy fruit juices and cider, plus there’s no shortage of quality coffee across the islands. Our top coffee spots include: Overview Coffee Setody Roastery and the Shimanami Coffee van - but you’d be surprised how many great spots you’ll find.
Sunsets, views and temples. Get a dose of serenity and nature. The most famous temple is Kousanji, which is combined with views from the interesting and modern sculpture garden called the Hill of Hope. We visited the local Ōyamazumi Shrine instead however and loved it. This shrine was so quiet compared those in major towns and features trees that are over 2000 years old.
We were also lucky to enjoy some amazing sunsets. You can witness these anywhere on the island as my photos show, but Shimanami beach is one of the most famous spots. Or you can do what we did and also watch the sunset over the ocean from the Iwashijima Itsukushima Shrine Torii. This Tori gate is almost a dupe for the famous one on Miyajima island - minus all the people (there were only 2 other people there when we went). Every island in the area also has multiple hilly viewpoints and walking trails if you want to see things from up high during the day.
Have I sold you yet? Great! Then it’s probably time to cover some logistics…
Like many regional places in Japan, the Seto Island area has been struggling with an aging population. There’s been lots of investment and young people coming in to reinvigorate the area - which has resulted in all the cool businesses and hotspots I noted above. But it’s still a pretty chill and sleepy place that hasn’t lost its rustic charm. This means teeny tiny roads, inconsistent or limited opening hours, and lots of nature (you might encounter a spider, bug or two out here!). This blend of new and old is something I find charming, but maybe isn’t for everyone. You need to be careful driving and take your time. If the winding small roads are a concern for you, look closely at google maps and you can usually find some route options that stick more to the main roads, then you can park and walk the rest of the way.
Curious about the AirBnB I travelled all the way to Japan for? I won’t gate keep. This is it right here! The old building has been fully renovated and is located on the same property as the owner’s main home. They’re a lovely young family and are passionate about their local area. They even offer a free breakfast each morning with homemade bread, honey, jams (jellies) and yogurt accompanied by local mandarin juice and fruit.
Want the full list of spots to save for your trip? See below (I’ve underlined my favourites for you too)!
Onimichi
Senkoji Temple Mountain Ropeway
きっちゃ初 (restaurant)
Koro Bakery
Onomichi Creators' Market
Setoda Island
Kousanji and the Hill of Hope
SOIL Setoda
Shimagokoro SETODA Honten
OVERVIEW COFFEE SETODA ROASTERY
Omishima Island
Shimanami Coffee
Marumado
Bubuka
Omishima Brewery
お好み 鉄板焼 いろは (okonomiyaki)
大三島みんなのワイナリー (winery)
Hakata Salt Co., Ltd. Omishima Factory (ice-cream and look around)
Innoshima Island
Shiratakiyama Observation Deck
Shimanami Beach (especially at sunset)
Mukaishima Island/Iwashi Island
Willows Nursery
Hama-no-ura Tunnel
Iwashijima Itsukushima Shrine Torii
Hakata Island
Pizzeria da ISOLANI ピッツェリア ダ イゾラーニ
Akakichi sushi restaurant
I really loved experiencing this lesser known part of Japan. This year Japan travel is shaping up to be busier than ever and we know the government is worried about over-tourism in major hubs. Exploring more regional areas of Japan is a breath of fresh air for everyone involved and something I know I’m keen to do more of.
Final trip rating, 4.5 out 5 lemon puffs 🍋
As always, any comments or question, let me know below :)
